Main photo: horse riding in Hanover parish.
Above: Doctor's Cave Beach

EXPLORING JAMAICA
There are scores of things to do and places to visit near to the Beach House. Here's a few highlights.

Montego Bay 'hip strip' has lots of cafes, restaurants, clubs, souvenir shops, and the world famous Doctor's Cave Beach, which is a great place to spend the day. The beach was originally owned by Dr McCatty and was approached through a hole in the rocks (hence the name) and the locals will tell you that the water there has healing properties because it is fed by underground springs. In the 1920s and 30s it was one of the most fashionable resorts in the Caribbean, and is still a place to see and be seen. Sunday is one of the best days to visit because there are no cruise liners in town and the beach is taken over by Mo Bay residents. It's relaxed, family-friendly and there are always interesting people to talk to.

map

Click to enlarge the map of Jamaica

A Red-billed Streamertail
hummingbird - known in Jamaica
as the Doctor Bird.

Horse riding with Chukka Blue at
Sandy Bay. To see the range of
attractions available visit www.
chukkacaribbean.com/jamaica.php

Mayfield Falls

Rocklands Bird Sanctuary. Founded by Lisa Salmon, Jamaica's best-known ornithologist, this secluded spot is surrounded by flocks of grassquits, saffron finches and, most famously, hummingbirds. Miss Salmon moved there in 1952 and slowly trained the birds to eat from her hands. In 1959 she opened the bird sanctuary. Since then, bird-lovers from around the world have hand-fed the regular guests - tiny finches flutter around outstretched palms filled with birdseed, while fast-as-lightning hummingbirds drink from a hand-held bottles of sugar water. Although Miss Salmon died in 2000, the sanctuary continues to operate, run by her long-time assistant Fritz. Aside from her work as an ornithologist, Lisa Salmon was an accomplished artist, and some of her exquisite pen and ink drawings hang on the wall of one of the Beach House bedrooms.

A mile or so down the road going west is the Great River, which flows through a lush, tropical rainforest with incredible gorges, which you can ride down on a bamboo raft. The more adventurous can try tubing or kyaking as well. All these activities are centred around the mountain village of Lethe.

Slightly further to the west in Sandy Bay there's the Chukka Blue Adventure Centre, with a variety of activities. These include a three-hour horseback ride into the countryside, through the ruins of Kennilworth sugar estate (destroyed during the Sam Sharpe slave revolt of 1831), ending up with a bareback ride in the sea. The horses are superbly kept, and many visitors have said this has been one of the highlights of their stay. For the more daring, there are quad bike rides or abseiling through the canopy of the forest.

The original inhabitants of Jamaica, the Taino indians who came in small canoes from South America, called the island Xamayca - land of wood and water. Visitors through the ages, from Columbus on, have been stunned by the beauty and splendour of the island's many rivers and spectacular waterfalls. The most famous of these is Dunne's River Falls in Ocho Rios, but these days it is sometimes difficult to appreciate the splendour because of the sheer volume of visitors, many from the cruise ships that dock in the nearby harbour.

There are, however, several other splendid falls within easy reach of the Beach House, where the atmosphere is much more relaxed and the scenery just as spectacular. The nearest is Mayfield Falls, located in the Dolphin Head mountains, about 25 miles away. You can walk alongside the river for several miles, stopping at the countless pools and small falls to take a dip, while the friendly guides point out the many interesting plants, trees, and birds that thrive in the vicinity.

Great River.
To find out more about activities on the Great River take a look at
www.greatriveradventures.com

Jamaica's most famous beach resort, Negril, is 55 miles away, at the western tip of the island. Although it has come a long way from the remote, isolated paradise beloved of hippies during the 1960s, it is still a great place to spend the day with its seven miles of golden sands as attractive as ever. The best way to appreciate is to take a walk along the beach where there are numerous bars, cafes, restaurants and shacks selling T-shirts and memorabilia. There's always some live music on offer and many of the island's top performers regularly turn up there. The beach at Negril. To get an idea of the attractions on offer, visit
www.negril.com

Above: A planter from Alpha Arts.
Opposite: a painting by Albert
Artwell, one of Jamaica's best-known
‘intuitives', from the Gallery of West
Indian Art. One of Artwell's paintings
hangs in the Beach House dining
room.
www.galleryofwestindianart.com
www.alphaartsjamaica.com

Falmouth parish church

If you are looking for gifts or something to remind you of your stay in Jamaica, we recommend two local galleries. Alpha Arts, run by Angela Clarke, is situated just a mile or so away and has some beautiful pieces made by local potters. The Gallery of West Indian Art (near to the Westgate shopping centre on the way into Montego Bay town) is a real treasure trove, with everything from paintings and sculptures to exquisitely handpainted coconut shells. Both will reward you with a fascinating glimpse into the artistic life of Jamaica.

If you're interested in gaining an insight into Jamaica's history, Greenwood Great House, which lies just a few miles east of Montego Bay, is well worth a visit. Built in 1790 by Richard Barrett (a relative of the poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning) the estate controlled nearly 2,000 slaves by the end of the 18th century, producing vast quantities of sugar - and vast wealth for their owners. Today it is a museum, and still has the original furniture, Wedgwood crockery, rare musical instruments, oil paintings and Richard Barrett's library on show. From the balcony you get a panoramic view of the north coast, and a unique sense of what life was like for the priviledged few on a sugar plantation in the days of slavery.

A few miles further on, 18 miles east of Montego Bay lies Falmouth, one of the Caribbean's best-preserved Georgian towns. Founded in 1769, it was one of Jamaica's busiest ports in the late 18th century, and a central hub in the triangular trade that brought slaves from West Africa and sent sugar to the UK. Built on a grid system like New York, it has many interesting buildings and strenuous efforts are now being made to preserve its unique character and architecture.

Finally, for fans of the late Bob Marley, we recommend a trip to his birthplace in the tiny village of Nine Miles. It's quite a haul into the hills of the parish of St Anne, taking in some spectacular scenery, but quite sobering when you see the remote hill-top cottage where one of the world's most influential singersongwriters was born and raised. Dreadlocked guides take you on a tour of the property, including the mausoleum where Bob is buried, punctuating their commentary with snatches from some of his songs.

Most of the attractions mentioned in this section operate a pick-up and drop-off service from the Beach House. If you want to take advantage of this, please let us know and we can make arrangements for you. Alternatively we can arrange for an experienced driver with minibus to take you around on a daily basis.

Greenwood Great House
www.greenwoodgreathouse.com

Bob Marley's birthplace (opposite) and mausoleum in the village of Nine Miles.